Let’s start with that bubbly, the Kirkland Signature, Brut Champagne, $22. This is real, upper-case Champagne. At that low-end price point, though, do you have the right to expect Bollinger or Veuve Clicquot? No, but, this is pretty darned good stuff.
It’s fairly rich, with wonderful yeasty, baked-apple-pie aromas. The creamy texture, with frothy, tiny bubbles, enliven the apple flavors. Very good. And just think: You can buy at least two of these for the price of a typical Champagne.
The Kirkland Signature, 2007 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, $10, is the one wine of this bunch that is produced by an actual winery. And it is classic New Zealand sauvignon blanc, with zippy grapefruit and peach aromas. The tart flavors of mango and peach, and big notes of grapefruit, make for a wonderful wine.
The Kirkland Signature, 2007 Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir, $14, is predictably very California-like, and that’s good or bad, depending and how Oregonized you are.
It begins with aromas of violets, earth and a note that I get so often in California pinot, of resin. The flavors are herbal, with notes of raisin and bing cherry. It’s a pretty hefty wine, for pinot, weighing in at 14 percent alcohol. Not much in the way of acidity. But that’s coming from someone who was weaned on Oregon pinot noir.
I suspect if you like California pinot, you’ll enjoy this.
So let’s get it on with the Kirkland Signature 2005 Margaux, $18. The skinny on this Bordeaux region is that the wines tend to be more elegant, more aromatic than some of the neighboring big boys.
And that’s exactly what I found, beginning with the fabulous floral, cedar and black-currant aromas. It’s fairly light, more delicate than one might normally expect of Bordeaux. It has good chewy tannins, and earthy flavors of blackberry and currant. Excellent with a side of beef.
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